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              <text>Bedreschein - Dec. 2d. 1907 This little record of travel should have begun a month ago - as we sailed from New York just a month ago - the 2d of Nov. on the Freiderick (sic) der Grosse. We had a rough unpleasant passage - there was no day on which I could have written with comfort. It was the worst passage I ever made. On some days, the best thing was to stay in bed - and that was a difficult thing to do. A friend of ours was thrown from his berth, and dislocated his shoulder - several accidents occurred - sprains etc. Reached Naples finally the morning of the 15th. Dr. Baldwin of Rome, and Mrs. Peck of Milwaukie, were on the boat, and added much to the pleasure of the voyage - coming when possible to my sitting room for tea. We knew that Nettie and Carrie would be waiting for us at Naples, and we hoped to have at least a night and day with Nettie at the Grand Hotel. But we were so belated that we had only time to drive to the hotel and get them, and drive back to the dock - and that was so disappointing. David Costantini was there also - and Mrs. Baldwin who had come from Rome to meet her husband - the voyage across the Mediterranean was as charming as the other was horrid. We arrived at Alexandria at 8 o’clock on Monday the 18th, stopped at the New Khedivial Hotel long enough to have a lunch put up for us, then paid a visit to the Museum (our first) though it is hardly worth a visit, and were off for Cairo at noon - and found our old rooms ready for us, and were eating dinner on the evening of the 16th day from N.Y. A very good record. We got away from Cairo today - having settled ourselves on the Beduin the 1st. We tried to get through the bridge yesterday - but there was such a crowd of gyassas at the draw, that we waited for most of them, dreading the dangers of that shouting, reckless, unmanageable crowd - but the Bridge time was up before they had all passed, and the draw was shut in our faces. We tied up at the Kasr el Nil barracks, and waited for today. We were so near when the draw was opened at 1 o’clock that we started as soon as the down boats had got through - but there was a good wind, and the reckless gyassas in spite of orders and shrieks of the bridge officers crowded upon us in full sail - and it was a very nasty twenty minutes we had - such noise, such frantic efforts. One of them crashed her bow into us, fortunately broke her bow sprit, and left her anchor embedded in the landing stage, or she would have ripped our side open. She did break one of the window frames, but luckily spared the glass, knocked much of our nice new paint off us etc. One of our men took out the window frame, and we left him in Cairo, to take it to the carpenters and painters. He rejoined us at Tourah by rail and says the carpenters and painters will reach Bedreshein tomorrow at 8 o’clock. As Theo and Carrie are to make a visit to Sakkarah we will not be detained. &#13;
     We saw Capt. Trefusis and his sweet sister Evelyn who is out with him this winter. They lunched with us several times, and she came in to stay one night (they are staying at Helouan) and go with Carrie early the next morning to see the ceremony of the Kishwa. He is now in a large business at Cairo. We also made the acquaintance of Lord Denbigh’s eldest son, Viscount Fielding. He is in the Coldstream Guards, who have lately been sent out here. He is a nice young fellow simple and natural. Mrs. Peck of Milwaukie was at Shepheards most of the time we were there, and we saw much of her. Cairo, and the whole of Egypt is now in serious financial straits, following the absurd speculative craze of the last 2 years. Prices are incredibly high. </text>
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              <text>Tuesday, Dec. 3rd. I have had a busy day settling - while Theo and Carrie went to Sakkarah. A lovely day. The Ramesis (sic) was lying by us all day - with a handful of passengers - but went off at 6 o’clock. The carpenter and painter have been here all day repairing damages. </text>
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              <text>Wednesday, Dec. 4. 41 miles. We got away from Bedraschein at 7 o’clock this morning - and have had a lovely day - river like glass, both of our sails out much of the time. The river is enormously broad about here. When I went on deck about 4 o’clock, I found a scene of ravishing beauty - the broad smooth river, the distant cliffs and Mts. and desert, with the heliotrope shadows, and the soft brilliant sun. It was too entrancing. We had tea on deck - and are now lying opposite Wasta. </text>
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              <text>Thursday, Dec. 5th. 29 miles. 	A quiet uneventful day - though the tug went on the sand once for a few minutes. It is a slow heavy tug, but was the only one Cook had unoccupied. We are about a mile above Ribbeh. &#13;
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              <text>Friday, Dec. 6th. 25 miles. 	Our tug, Anubis by name, went on the sand soon after nine this morning, and got off at 10:25. The river is so very broad here, that it is difficult to find the channel. The gyassas seemed to be having as much trouble as we had. Such a wonderful sunset - the sky, crimson pink with one long narrow cloud near the horizon, above which shone Venus, quite resplendent, and the new moon, the veriest silver thread of a little crescent, just below the cloud. &#13;
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              <text>Saturday, Dec. 7. 44 miles. 	Made an early start - and tied up at 5:30 within 3 miles of Minia. Lovely day, and perfect evening. &#13;
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              <text>Second Sunday in Advent. Dec. 8th. 28-1/2 miles. 	A very heavy fog on the river this morning delayed our starting until 9:25 - spent about 2 hours at Minia waiting for mail and express parcels - a good sailing day - tied up at Rodah about 6 o’clock. &#13;
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              <text>Monday. Dec. 9th. 41-1/2 miles. Started at 6 o’clock - a cloudy day - and cold wind. Passed Mellawi, Hadji Kandel, and the Gebel Abu Feda and pulled up opposite Menfalout at 6 o’clock. We missed our channel this afternoon and had to go back to find it. It was a wonderful sight passing the Gebel. In all the years I have been on the Nile, I have not see such a transcendently beautiful sunset - and the colour reflected from the rocks made a great effect. &#13;
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              <text>Tuesday, Dec. 10. Asyût.  8 miles. 	Arrived at 1 o’clock having had the tug one hour on the sand. Theo dismissed the tug at 2 o’clock and we sailed at 3:30 - quite a good wind until 6 p.m. at which hour we tied up for the night, 8 miles above Asyut. It seemed very good to get rid of the tug. They are only tolerable to make speed, and this one couldn’t do it. Last year the Thothmes took us in 10 days to Luxor. This year the Anubis took 9 days to go to Asyût. &#13;
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              <text>Wednesday, Dec. 11th. 19 miles. 	We had no wind until noon - but a very good one until 5:40 when we tied up and with the towing we did before noon we made our 19 miles - lovely and warm. &#13;
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              <text>Thursday, Dec. 12. Sohag.  41-1/2 miles. Started at 7 - the wind freshened finely at 8 o’clock and we came splendidly on until within a mile of Sohag about 7 o’clock we struck the sand sharply - and were there 3/4 of an hour. Earlier in the afternoon we came near having a serious experience, - just as we approached the landing stage at Tahta which was crowded with gyassas and people, the wind shifted, and at that moment a gyassa, crowded with people, pushed out before our prow. We could give her no room - in spite of the yells and cries of our men she came on - and disaster seemed certain for if we had struck her we would have capsized here (sic - her?)and gone over her. It is impossible to say why this kind of thing occurs so often - it is one of the greatest dangers on the Nile. A delightful day. </text>
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              <text>Friday, Dec. 13. 28-1/2 miles. 	We waited at Sohag this morning until 9:30 for mail and provisions. Stopped within 4 miles of Balliana at 6 P.M. A good wind, a heavenly day. The nights too, with the young moon and the resplendent Venus, are wonderful. </text>
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              <text>Saturday, Dec. 14. 8-1/2 miles. 	A perfectly calm morning - but tracking and polling we made Balliana at 4:30 - no mail, so we were off at once, and with a light wind went on until 6 P.M.</text>
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              <text>Sunday - Third in Advent. Dec. 15. 6 miles. 	A perfectly windless day - bright and hot. Our men have worked like Trojans every minute of the day - polling and tracking, we think we have made 6 miles. </text>
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              <text>Monday, Dec. 16.  A repetition of yesterday - clear, hot, windless day. The men have been polling, tracking, pulling to anchor in the burning sun all day. Theo thinks we have made about 12 miles. We are now at Nagh Hamadi, waiting to pass the bridge tomorrow. </text>
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              <text>Tuesday, Dec. 17. 30 miles. Keneh. We got quietly through the bridge at 8 o’clock this morning. Found the Istar lying there, closed, and with flags down. Her men said that Mr. Sayce had gone to Cairo to see his dentist. We have had a splendid day and fine wind, and are now lying at Dendera, as Theo wants Carrie to see it tomorrow. </text>
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              <text>Wednesday, Dec. 18. 18 miles. 	We got off as soon as T. and C. came back from the Temple, about 11 o’clock - and with good wind came to within 4 miles of Nagadah. </text>
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              <text>Thursday, Dec. 19 21 miles. Started early, 6 o’clock, hoping to make Luxor tonight, but are tied up 4 miles below it. Very contrary and shifting wind - and cold - pulled to the anchor for hours. Beautiful night. </text>
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              <text>Friday, Dec. 20.  Luxor at last, arriving at 10:30 this morning. Came to our usual mooring place opposite the Castle - and soon the men were busy settling us. A huge mail waiting for us. Theo and Carrie went to Karnac this afternoon. &#13;
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              <text>Saturday, Dec. 21. I was at home all day. Theo and Carrie went to the Valley to look at the pit tomb Ayrton wrote about. They opened it - it proved only a pit with large vases - some sealed - some more or less broken. They report our little house finished, but too damp to live in at present - though Ayrton is living in one room. The Miriam, with tug Thothmes got in about 5 P.M. I received a note from Madame Maspero. They leave early tomorrow morning - bound for Aswân, and Halfa. One of the most wonderful moon rises this evening. </text>
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              <text>Fourth Sunday in Advent. Dec. 22nd. Theo and Carrie again to the Valley - but Carrie this time on a donkey - an exquisite day. I have had a beautiful quiet Sunday. This morning I was amused watching the loading of 2 camels with all our furnishings for our house in the Valley. One of the camels had the most delicious young camel with her - about a month old I should think, a lovely creature - so affectionate to its mother and so full of life and pranks. </text>
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              <text>Monday, Dec. 23rd. All went over to the town this morning - Carrie and I to see Miss Buchanan - then to Mrs. Weigalls and saw the new baby - and I delivered the cup I brought over for Corinna Smith. Then I went to see poor Mrs. Murch - who is most sad - but very brave. Then we encountered Theo on our way home - and stopped at the Winter Palace to see the Iddings. Mr. Iddings, the girl, Carrie and Theo went to Karnak at 4 o’clock and Mrs. Iddings came over and had tea with me. &#13;
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              <text>Tuesday, Dec. 24. I have been busy all day in the boat, first getting my pots of bulbs into order - then the Christmas presents for the men - in which Jones and Carrie helped - and so did not go out - the morning lovely, but cold high winds this afternoon. Theo and Carrie went at 3 o’clock to Medinet Habu. </text>
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              <text>Dec. 25. Wednesday. Christmas. A beautiful winters day - the distribution of presents to the men went off successfully. Mr. Ayrton came over to spend the night, and Mr. and Mrs. Iddings came to dine - and we had a concert from the men, which amused the Iddings very much. </text>
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